Our reason to sell is we have decided to purchase a different primary boat and this one is primary now so no need for two. The original in line 6 cylinder was great but this boat responds extremely well with the V6 engine. I upgraded the engine to modern power 1999 4.3 Mercruiser V6 and a new drive when I replaced the rotten transom. It is sound and as all lap strake boats it does seep some water until fully swelled but not of any amount that the bilge pump cannot maintain. ![]() I have cared for, maintained and kept stored safely out of the weather when not in use. The boat is ready to launch now and is fully equipped for pleasure rides, river cruises, fishing and towing. For the same effort the results are far better so worth the trouble (and extra money) Nothing worse than spending lots of time doing the prep and finding the result does not last any reasonable length of time.I purchased the boat in 2000 from second owner, completely restored and used often for 10 years nearly every weekend in fresh water lakes, towed to Florida several times to the St Johns River, Tennessee River in Alabama and Mississippi for wooden boat events. There must be a T Ford guy who is a painter in your club who can give you a bit of a guide. The main thing is to brush on the first coat with thinned material ( primer or clear if it goes on to the timber) if you spray air hits the timber first, it builds up in the grain and stops the the paint soaking in so you can get air bubbles under the coating,ĭon't know how small your back yard is but I would have thought you were a fair way from neighbours and if you used a small gravity feed spray gun and it was a calm sunny day you could easily spray a body panel or a wood spoke wheel without any problem. On cars they speed up the drying with heat, with timber just let it dry in the air, if you need to you can change the drying time by using faster or slower hardeners and thinners.Īny timber which is faulty or poor quality will move so much no paint can cope with it but good strong timbers like hickory and ash they are ideal for the top grade urethanes. Good thing about the 2 part ones is they don't get affected by most solvents or other corrosive things once they dry/harden. All the modern ones have additives which can be added to make them more flexible ( so they can coat soft plastic parts) and can be altered to suit any problem the surface such as timber might have. Good urethanes won't crack easily, usually they can last 20 to 30 years. So each coat takes more moisture out.Įnamels on the other hand tend to be opposite, they have little solvent (dry slower also) but leave a thick coating so only 2 maybe 3 is more than enough. Lacquers need lots of solvent so they need several coats too build up enough of a coating. Because of the fast drying they have been used on timber furniture most commonly on music instruments such as guitars but Nitro cellulose ones hate sunlight and the Acrylic Lacquers are as I mentioned, savage on the timber moisture content. Lacquers are not a good idea on wood, they dry too fast when the solvent evaporates this usually leads to the moisture in the timber been drawn out of it. ( the cold prevents the reaction between the hardener and the clear as heat is generated when the clear sets) When you are ready take it out let it go to room temperature and spray it on. If you want to let it set, rub any marks out and apply another coat.Īs it is expensive, if you have mixed too much up and it would do a another coat of clear, place it in a sealed container and put it in the fridge. To apply the clear after mixing it, thin the first coat more than recommended to spray and rub it in to the grain with a brush so it penetrates into the timber and then apply the normal clear with two coats. Ignatio, you might even like to go the full hog (more expensive) and use a ceramic clear they use on high end auto's it's virtually scratch proof. It works on a boat so would be good on a car. Marine spar varnish is a far inferior clear finish compared to todays auto clears, A 2 part marine polyurethane clear would be a better option. I've had a 2 part clear Auto paint on the wheel spokes and dash panel on my Kamper and color on the body, been on there for over 20 years. What you need is a strong hard clear which you can step on which won't scratch easily. It is ideal for use on a timber running board as are auto 2 part colors. ![]() Allan, Have to disagree with you on the Automotive clear.
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